Pardesiu "Renato Nucci"
Pardesiu din jacquard (38% viscose, 37% poliester, 27% rayon), brodat cu paiete si snururi. Se inchide cu un nasture pe interior si cu un cordon fix in talie. Doua buzunare anterioare, pe lungime. Umeri falsi de mici dimensiuni, incorporati. Captusit cu acetat bej.
Masuri: gat - 80, bust - 94, talie - 84, sold - 102, lungime - 93, lungime maneca - 62. Pe eticheta: 38. Echivalare: M.
Brand: Renato Nucci / Franta.
Renato Nucci, born René Khayad is one of the first innovators and designers to have revolutionized women fashion in the early 1970's. He was the first to implement designs on silk blouses and was known all over Europe as a fashion icon for his avant-garde look and style. His dresses have been worn by the Royals, celebrities and trendsetters. His story was not always glamorous, it was one of self determination, hunger and the need to succeed at any price.
Nucci was born to an Egyptian father and Italian mother. He lived in Egypt, and moved to Milan with his family when he was just eight years old. He went to school in Milan then moved to Lyon, France with his family. The drastic change and language barrier made him quit school shortly after.
"I became a hippie. I traveled to London, lived three years in Lyon and moved to Paris at the age of 19 years old. I had no degree, no job, I was lost. After countless jobs I landed a gig managing a up and coming nightclub in the centre of Paris scene".
At the time, a friend of his Benadoun approached with an opportunity to make some extra money on the side producing tie-dying printed t-shirts. "He came to me with this idea and wanted to partner up, split the costs and do this full time" [the problem was] it was only a summer gig. So he had to come up with another concept to sell all year round. We decided to print satin images on the t-shirts. Our first t-shirt was a butterfly symbol. We would get the t-shirts from the factory, get the prints from the wholesaler and put them together. At the time we bought the t-shirts for five franc, and we would sell them for 10. We would double our capital every time. So 20 became 40, which became 80, 160, etc. In five months, they had managed to sell over 6,000 t-shirts.
Then we decided to cut costs and go straight to the factories, instead of having a middle man. It lasted about three months before we parted ways. "My company became "Renato Mode & Création". Now that I had my own company running, [I decided] to come up with a winter line, because having only summer traffic wouldn't be consistent enough. This line was turtleneck sweaters, produced in France.
I would use natural charcoal to make the effect of wool stand out. I would put the sweaters through a machine, which would leave residue pieces unused. Then I had this idea to take all these materials of different colours, and recycle them to make a "patch work" styled sweater. That became my second biggest success.
Here is a picture of Renato Nucci, wearing one of his very own tops : A patch-work sweater in brushed shetland.
What was your next business move?
Then I decided to partner up with André Cohen, I associated with him because he had the machines I needed. [At the time] I used to carry my stock in the trunk of my car, and give out hand written receipts.I had a PO box but no office. and finally, I lent him money and he couldn't pay me back so he told me: listen, if you want you can take over the company and we'll call it even. I accepted, and then I was stuck with two companies, alone. This was a very hard time for me, because I never had the training to manage two companies at the same time. I closed the sweater company and I kept the sweater company for men. Since I was known for doing female blouses, and at the time there was a trend where women wore men shirts, I decided to copy mens shirt, and make them for women. I kept the same fabric and finishing.
So I introduced this beautiful shirt for women. I had a stand at the fashion show in Paris and showcased my latest pieces on the stand. I made a collection for women with my leftover fabrics. By the next day, it was sold out. At the time they were made out of cotton which was unheard of, they only made polyester blouses for women. So here I was making men style shirts in pure cotton for women.
When I saw how women reacted to my styles, I instantly changed markets . Men wanted details, while women just wanted style. So I stopped making men clothes and got into the womens' market.
The first year in his new venture, he was recognized as the specialist in woman's cotton blouses. "There was no competition. Then I started doing fantasy blouses in cotton. I made more styles but kept the same fabric."
That's when he became known as Renato Nucci.
"People started to copy my designs. At first when I was copied, I was upset - I took a lawyer, and attacked all the merchants that copied me. Out of 12 cases, I had won 11. Then my competition got smarter and re-opened by changing enough details that I couldn't sue them. Except they had downgraded on quality. So when I saw that, I decided to do like them, I would also copy myself. I opened another fashion company called Cotton Square, identical to mine in design and style, but cheaper than all my competitions. [At the time] my designs were on the stands for 160 F, my competition sold them at 140 F, Cotton Square sold for it 82 F. Most of my competitors stopped selling and closed their doors."
This taught me a very important lesson about business: when your competition strikes, you must counter attack.
Then in my new collection, I came out with a different fabric sand-washed silk. It felt like velvet to the touch. It was a very expensive fabric. I found it in Honk Kong for a lot cheaper than in France, so I started to import it and make blouses from that material.
The rest, as they say is history.
Did people start treating you differently after you gained immense success?
I never realized how people could see me differently, because I never saw myself differently. Even when I became famous, I didn't know I was famous. Even when people would approach me, I was surprised. I understood too late in my career what it truly meant, the impact that I had. I could've used it more towards my business (for example priced myself higher, etc). I had undervalued myself.
What advice can you give to young aspiring fashion designers?
Everything happens in due time. Be smarter than your competition. Work hard. Most importantly, you need to be passionate about what you're doing.
Nucci resides in Shanghai now, where he does everything from fashion show consulting to elite events. When I asked him what he plans on doing next, his response was simple:
I have spent 30 years of my life working on my fashion designs, and now I will spend the rest of my life enjoying the fruits of my labour.
He takes on projects and collaborations that he does for the pure joy of doing, and no longer to make a living. " (Sursa: gossclub.com)